{"id":8633,"date":"2017-05-18T14:24:32","date_gmt":"2017-05-18T14:24:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?p=8633"},"modified":"2025-12-18T10:11:00","modified_gmt":"2025-12-18T10:11:00","slug":"montenegro-descente-le-long-de-la-tara","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?p=8633","title":{"rendered":"Mont\u00e9n\u00e9gro, descente le long de la Tara"},"content":{"rendered":"<div>Aujourd&rsquo;hui on a de la route car on va, en plusieurs \u00e9tapes, retraverser le pays dans le sens inverse (et \u00e7\u00e0, on peut pas se le permettre dans tous les pays !).<\/div>\n<div>Tout d&rsquo;abord on commence par quelques virages dans le coin pour aller voir les gorges de Tara. Oui on parle bien d&rsquo;une rivi\u00e8re, une belle rivi\u00e8re des montagnes, compl\u00e8tement naturelle, non r\u00e9gul\u00e9e et propice au rafting. Elle coule \u00e0 certains endroits sous\u00a0environ 1300m de canyon.<\/div>\n<div>On trouve un point de vue bien sympa avec vue sur toute la vall\u00e9e et\u00a0o\u00f9 on serait bien rester dej, mais non, il faut descendre de la montagne. Alors on prend la route direction Podgorica, la capitale, qui serpente tout le long de la Tara. Sur le chemin, le superbe pont de Djurdjevica, constitu\u00e9 de plusieurs arches, d\u00e9truit pendant la guerre puis reconstruit, le petit monast\u00e8re de Dobrilovina tout perdu pr\u00e8s de la rivi\u00e8re qu&rsquo;on visitera tout seul, juste avec une grande bonne s\u0153ur.<\/div>\n<div>La route n&rsquo;en fini pas de longer la rivi\u00e8re Tara qui devient ensuite la Moraca. Ici se trouve le monast\u00e8re de la Moraca, point touristique important m\u00eame s&rsquo;il ne nous \u00e0 pas laiss\u00e9 un souvenir imp\u00e9rissable. On passe sous un grand nombre de tunnels, au fond de gorges somptueuses, le paysage est grandiose jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 finalement l&rsquo;arriv\u00e9e dans la banlieue de Podgorica. Ici on ne s&rsquo;arr\u00eate m\u00eame pas, car l&rsquo;envie n&rsquo;est pas aux grandes villes sans charme !<\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-8633 gallery-columns-2 gallery-size-large'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?attachment_id=16571'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1576.jpg 1590w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?attachment_id=16572'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"325\" src=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-1024x325.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-1024x325.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-300x95.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-768x244.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-1536x487.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-2048x650.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-1920x609.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-1440x457.jpg 1440w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-1200x381.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-10-600x190.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?attachment_id=16573'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"343\" src=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-1024x343.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-1024x343.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-300x100.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-768x257.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-1536x514.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-2048x686.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-1920x643.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-1440x482.jpg 1440w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-1200x402.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-11-1-600x201.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?attachment_id=16574'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1566.jpg 1798w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<div>Toujours plus au sud donc, direction le lac de Skadar, qui promet d&rsquo;\u00eatre une \u00e9tape magnifique du voyage. Quelques 40mn apr\u00e8s Podgorica on voit enfin le lac, un grand pont permet de le traverser et de se rendre dans le tout petit village de Virpazar. Ici on sent que le tourisme est bien ancr\u00e9 dans la vie quotidienne car directement on se fait alpaguer, on nous demande de garer la voiture \u00e0 l&rsquo;entr\u00e9e et de visiter des h\u00f4tels. Finalement on trouvera nous m\u00eame un bel et immense appart avec jacuzzi et terrasse avec vue pour la modique somme de &#8230; 40\u20ac, notre chambre la plus ch\u00e8re du voyage, merci la basse saison !<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div>La ballade dans le village est tr\u00e8s rapide mais permet de voir le lac au loin. Avec le soleil couchant les couleurs sont magiques mais Virpazar et son ambiance pesante humide et vaporeuse en ce mois de mai ne nous permettant pas d&rsquo;admirer le lac correctement, on d\u00e9cide d\u00e9j\u00e0 de s&rsquo;\u00e9vader pour le soir. Grand bien nous en a pris. On prend la route 5mn le long du lac pour arriver \u00e0 Godinje. Quelques beaux points de vue sur la route car on prend de la hauteur mais l&rsquo;arriv\u00e9e au village nous laisse un peu perplexe, dans l&rsquo;ombre et peu d&rsquo;\u00e2mes ont l&rsquo;air d&rsquo;y vivre. On d\u00e9niche finalement une petite route qui monte vers le vieux Godinje, raide comme un poteau au bout de laquelle on se gare.<\/div>\n<div>L\u00e0, \u00ab\u00a0Clodo\u00a0\u00bb (traduit du serbe), un beau labrador chocolat, nous prend en charge pour la visite (oui on a toujours un cl\u00e9bard qui s&rsquo;occupe de nous dans nos ballades). On a l&rsquo;impression de visiter un magnifique petit village fant\u00f4me jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 ce qu&rsquo;on tombe sur la terrasse d&rsquo;une maison qui propose de d\u00e9guster du vin local. Il ne nous en faut pas plus pour nous faire asseoir et \u00e9viter de rentrer \u00e0 Virpazar.<\/div>\n<div>Au grand et bon verre de rouge qui se pose sur notre table succ\u00e9dera une belle carpe du lac frite, sa pur\u00e9e maison et sa soupe de poisson&#8230;<\/div>\n<div>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-8633 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-large'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?attachment_id=16576'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1435-1.jpg 1915w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?attachment_id=16577'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-1636-1.jpg 1915w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/?attachment_id=16578'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"583\" src=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-1024x583.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-1024x583.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-300x171.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-768x437.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-1536x875.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-1440x820.jpg 1440w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-1200x683.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1-600x342.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/J5-Durmitor-et-Tara-3-1.jpg 1867w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n<div>Une belle trouvaille pour passer la soir\u00e9e !<\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Aujourd&rsquo;hui on a de la route car on va, en plusieurs \u00e9tapes, retraverser le pays dans le sens inverse (et \u00e7\u00e0, on peut pas se le permettre dans tous les pays !). Tout d&rsquo;abord on commence par quelques virages dans le coin pour aller voir les gorges de Tara. Oui on parle bien d&rsquo;une rivi\u00e8re, &#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":16574,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"loftocean_post_format_gallery":"","loftocean_post_format_gallery_ids":"","loftocean_post_format_gallery_urls":"","loftocean_post_format_video_id":0,"loftocean_post_format_video_url":"","loftocean_post_format_video_type":"","loftocean_post_format_video":"","loftocean_post_format_audio_type":"","loftocean_post_format_audio_url":"","loftocean_post_format_audio_id":0,"loftocean_post_format_audio":"","loftocean-featured-post":"","loftocean-like-count":0,"loftocean-view-count":261,"loftocean-enable-content-navigation":"","loftocean-content-navigation-position":"","loftocean-content-navigation-heading":"h3","loftocean-content-navigation-label":"","loftocean-content-navigation-icon":"","loftocean-map-location":"","loftocean-map-latlng":"","loftocean-map-auto-latlng":"","eaven_single_post_hide_thumbnail":"","eaven_single_post_template":"","eaven_single_post_sidebar":"","eaven_hide_before_page_content_ad":"","eaven_hide_after_page_content_ad":"","eaven_advanced_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[50,3],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-8633","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-montenegro","8":"category-europe"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8633","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8633"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8633\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16579,"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8633\/revisions\/16579"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/16574"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8633"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8633"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remiglobetrotte.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8633"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}